Tinajoiksi kutsutut espanjalaiset amforeet ovat siirtyneet Elisabetta Foradorin Trentinon viinitilan barrikkeista
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Simon Woolf tutkii vasta-vallankumouksen raportteja Italian viinikellareissa ...
Paolo Casalisin vuoden 2014 elokuvassa on lyhyt mutta dramaattinen hetki Barolo Boys: Vallankumouksen tarina kun viininvalmistaja Elio Altare vie moottorisahan perheensä kellarissa seisovaan mahtavaan botti-riviin (perinteiset suuret tammitynnyrit).
Hänen rituaalisella tuhoamisellaan näistä kunnioitettavista astioista, joka otettiin käyttöön vuonna 1983, oli käytännön tarkoitus - luoda tilaa uusille ostetuille, pienemmille ranskalaisille tammi-barrikkeille. Mutta voimakas symboliikka oli selvä - oletettavasti haiseva, rappeutuva botti edusti vanhaa järjestystä. Rivit täydellisistä, äskettäin yhteistyössä tehdyistä barrikkeista lähettivät selkeän viestin modernuudesta ja tyylistä.
Vieritä alaspäin nähdäksesi Woolfin valikoiman italialaisia viinejä, jotka on valmistettu ilman tammea
Se, mikä näytti olevan edistyksellinen vuonna 1983, oli tullut arvostetuksi arvostetuille italialaisille viinitiloille 1990-luvun lopulla. Mutta viime aikoina barriquen ratkaiseva tammenkonttu on pudonnut suosiosta Friulista koilliseen Sisiliaan etelässä ja kaikkiin pisteisiin.
Italian viininvalmistajat ovat siirtymässä yhä useammin vaihtoehtoisiin materiaaleihin ja astioihin käymiseksi ja ikääntymiseksi aina arkaanista suoraan ulospäin.
Missä barrikit aikoinaan seisoivat, nyt saattavat olla amforeita, georgialaisia qvevrisjä, betonimunia tai suuria akaasiatynnyrejä. Onko tämä vain muodin juoksumaton syklinen jyrsintä vai osa päättäväisempää liikettä kohti suurempaa aitoutta ja ilmaisua?
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Woolfin maistamishuomautukset ja tulokset valinnalle ilman tammea valmistettuja italialaisia viinejä:
Mielenkiintoisia Artikkeleita
