Vuosikertomus: Barolo 2009- Winestealssd.com

Barolo 2009,

Piemonte

Tom Maresca oli syvästi pettynyt tähän vuoden 2009 maisteluun ja viittasi viininvalmistajien epäonnistumiseen puuttua siihen, kuinka vaikea vuosikerta oli yhtenä syynä tähän 'surkeaan' esitykseen.

'Harvat 2009-luvut perustelivat optimismia pitkäikäisyydestään, ja useimmat tuottajat puhuivat vuodesta 2009 vuosikertaisena lyhytaikaisessa juomisessa'

Vuoden 2009 vuosikerta Barolo kohtaavat kuluttajat joidenkin ankarien totuuksien ja joidenkin ankarien viinien kanssa. Maistin reilusti yli 200 esimerkkiä Barolo 2009: stä Nebbiolo Primassa Albassa toukokuussa. Suurimmalla osalla viiden päivän tapahtumista tarjolla olevista viineistä puuttui paitsi klassinen Nebbiolo-väri, mutta siinä ei ollut miltei Nebbiolo-aromeja eikä makuja.

Rakastan Baroloa, ja kunnioitan ja ihailen monia sen tuottajia omistautumisestaan ja visiosi selkeydestä. Minun on kuitenkin sanottava, että tällä vuosikymmenellä monien heistä suorituskyky ei yksinkertaisesti puuttunut, vaan oli surkeaa.

Tietysti oli poikkeuksia: useat tuottajat - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto - joillekin - osoittautuivat melko juotavaksi Baroloksi. Muutamat - etenkin Pio Cesare ja Massolino-Vigna Rionda - uskovat jopa viininsä ikääntymispotentiaaliin. Kauppiaat ja ostajat, jotka maistivat valikoiman näitä viinejä viikkoa aikaisemmin kuin toimittajat, ja tuottajien (ei sokea) kanssa toistivat tätä mielipidettä usein. Mutta makuuni - ja monien toimittajien mielestä, joiden kanssa puhuin - suurin osa Barolon valmistajista näyttää aliarvioivan vakavasti tämän vuosikymmenen vaikeudet. Harvat 2009-luvut perustelivat optimistisuutta pitkäikäisyydestään, ja useimmat tuottajat puhuivat vuodesta 2009 vuosikertaisena lyhytaikaisessa juomisessa.

Giacomo Conterno, Aldo Conterno -viinitila Monforten kunnassa, oli yksi suoremmista tuottajista. Hän sanoi: ”Vuosi 2009 oli viininviljelijän vuosikerta. Elokuun lopussa jotkut [Nebbiolo] -viiniköynnökset olivat jo melkein kypsiä ja toiset täysin kypsymättömiä - niiden välillä oli lähes 30 päivän ero. Se, mitä teit tässä asiassa, määräsi minkälaisen viinin teit. ”Consorzion yleensä optimistinen arvio sadosta tänä vuonna on hyvin vartioitu:

”Vuoden 2009 vuosikerta muistetaan myös epäsäännöllisestä kypsymiskuvastaan… Teknologisen kypsymisen osalta vuosikerta voidaan sijoittaa vuosien 2003 ja 2007 välille… Fenolisen kypsymisen osalta… rypäleistä löydetyt tiedot olivat verrattavissa vuoden 2003… tässä vuosikymmenessä tuloksia ei aina parannettu viivästyttämällä sadonkorjuuta. '

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Kirjoittanut Tom Maresca